Downstream

A voyage on the Kingswear Castle from Totnes to Dartmouth seemed like a good idea. Constructed in 1924, she is the only operating coal-fired paddle steamer in the country and is part of the National Historic Fleet.

The navigable lower Dart was previously unexplored territory for us. It was extremely hot when we reached Totnes and any sort of a breeze on the river would have been welcome, as, too, would have been the arrival of the Kingswear Castle but, unfortunately, she did not show up. She had “burst a pipe”, her place being taken by the Dartmouth Castle, instead.

The Dart estuary is vast with uninterrupted woodland for miles on both banks and no signs of any habitation or roads until Stoke Gabriel appears at the head of a creek and then picturesque Dittisham comes into view. The whole area is quite captivating when viewed from the water.

As we approached Dartmouth we passed the Kingswear Castle at her mooring. No doubt they were busy working on the offending piece of burst pipe so that she could claim her rightful place on the waterway the next day. That must make a very fitting sight, come to think of it. Oh well, win a few lose a few.