Sunday, 20 May 2018

Romance on the Rails


In his book, The Last Journey of William Huskisson,” Simon Garfield tells the tale of a meeting that took place between forty-nine-year-old railway giant George Stephenson and Fanny Kemble, an actress of twenty-one, whose father knew some of the directors of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway. She just happened to be wowing theatre audiences in the city in the role of Shakespeare’s Juliet, at the same time as the first trains were being trialled, in 1830.

To cut a fascinating and very readable story short, Fanny joined George on the footplate, where she was all but overcome by the experience, as he explained the basics of how the locomotive worked, in his broad Northumbrian accent. Fanny likened the machine to a powerful animal - possibly the first time, but certainly not the last, that that simile would be employed. She described her impressions of her ride “up front” in a letter to a friend, admitting that she was now, “horribly in love,” with the great man.

In 2008, we went to the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool for the exhibition, Art in the Age of Steam. There were railway art masterpieces on show from France and the USA, as well as some notable nineteenth century British examples. Into that category comes this familiar painting [below, left] by Abraham Solomon, entitled The Meeting…and at First Meeting Loved.



The young man is obviously taking advantage of the fact that dad is asleep to chat up the daughter. Apparently, this caused such an affront to [admittedly, frequently hypocritical] Victorian sensibilities in 1854, that Solomon felt obliged to clean it up. He fashioned a sanitised version a year or two later called The Return – First Class, in which the young man, now having improved his credentials by donning military uniform, is trying to get a word in edgeways, while her father, now sitting between them and evidently playing party pooper, goes off on one.

Perhaps the best-known railway romance of all was the David Lean wartime film, Brief Encounter, in which in spite of its success and subsequently iconic status, the liaison itself never really got off the ground. All that “Darling, darling” stuff proved to be just a preamble without resolution. Common sense prevailed and they went their separate ways without any crockery getting smashed, the need for appointments at Relate or trips to the solicitor.

The other mega, rail-related cinematic romance was surely the Railway Children? Who can forget that poignant moment when father finally returns, emerging on the station platform as if from the puff of smoke itself, rather than unjust imprisonment far away? Lots more films have included railway-based love interest, of course, including Dr Zhivago and The Thirty Nine Steps.

The poets have also had their say. Philip Larkin noted preparations for nuptials observed from the train when passing through the towns and villages of Lincolnshire in The Whitsun Weddings, and in [christine1] his poem, Thoughts in a Train, John Betjeman’s attention is attracted by the garb and accessories of an intriguing fellow traveller, though he seems mesmerised by her trappings - indicators, he points out, of a higher social class then her third class ticket would suggest - rather than any of her other, perhaps more obvious, attributes.

When Michael Portillo ventured into Thomas Hardy country on one of his Bradshaw inspired rail journeys, he referred to an example of the novelist’s lesser known contributions as a prolific poet. Entitled Faintheart in a Railway Station, Hardy notices that……….

“…then, on a platform, she:

A radiant stranger, who saw not me.



I queried, “Get out to her, do I dare?”

But I kept my seat in my search for a plea,

And the wheels moved on. O could it but be

That I had alighted there.”



The heritage railways are not infrequently afflicted by romance in recent times, I’ve noticed, whether its members of staff and volunteers finding that love has sprung from their rubbing shoulders in their work situation, or enthusiasts who have chosen a favourite railway location in which to celebrate getting hitched.  

Just one of the many attractions of the refurbished St Pancras station is Paul Day’s sculpture, The Meeting Place, a thirty feet high bronze statue of an embrace between lovers. Not only does it summarise the timeless function of railway stations as places where people have traditionally parted and been reunited, with all that attendant emotion, but its scale and location ensure that it will become a focal point for such similar interactions hereafter.

When we chose rail travel on our own honeymoon, to France, in 1972, there was no Channel Tunnel or Eurostar so we made do with the ferry crossings and their connecting services, firstly to Paris and then on to Grenoble, visiting French friends in both locations. I remember it as exciting rather than romantic, but my wife may have a different perspective. I do know that when I left Britain I was a teetotal twenty-three-year-old who had never touched the stuff but by the time I returned I had developed a real liking for red wine.

We have often said that we should go back and retrace that journey, but I have found in other instances that that does not necessarily work out for the best. It is not possible to re-live the past. Places change. Some of the people we met up with then, are, unfortunately, but perhaps not surprisingly given the substantial passage of time, no longer alive today. Better to savour the moment and the memories that follow.       

I sometimes stand accused of “living in the past,” with my interest in heritage and its surviving tangible reminders. I bet I’m not the only one to hear that accusation, from time to time. It’s all a question of balance, of course.  The academics, Lowenstein and Elster, referred to “a triple counting of experience,” in which we derive pleasure from looking back on the things we have enjoyed and forward in anticipation to things that have yet to happen, as well as the immediate gratification we derive from the moment itself. Whether in romance or in any other worldly pleasure, who is to say that a bit of “living in the past” shouldn’t be a part of it, from time to time?


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